Updates for
Nancy Chandler's Map of Bangkok, 25th edition February 2010
by Nima Chandler
Updates are organized in order of the map
index's table of contents for your convenience. To jump ahead
to any particular section, click on any of the following:
Please note that we do not accept advertising
or 'tea money' for mention on this site or on Nancy Chandler's
maps. All contents are chosen for their interest to us and
our readers.
HOTELS
THIS PAGE IS UNDER ‘REVISION’ As we keep updates for the past edition map online for several months, we are only now updating this page to reflect updates for the 25th edition only. We recommend you return in a week when all changes for the new edition have been made to this page.
OUR TOP PICKS IN THE OLD BANGKOK AREA We often get asked which hotels have real unique Thai charm. We’d recommend the below: The often fully booked Old Bangkok Inn (B 3,200+, www.oldbangkokinn.com) on Phra Sumen (B2) has 8 unique non-smoking rooms. It's very intimate but quaint, with old wood furniture combined with modern touches including a computer, wifi, DVD and satellite tv. In the same league, but smaller, is The Bhuthorn (see New Boutique Hotels in Old Bangkok below). Also special is the Arun Residence (B 3,500+, www.arunresidence.com) off Maharat Rd (A2), with 5 rooms overlooking the river and Wat Arun. Then there is the characterful Phranakorn Nornlen (B 1,800+, www.phranakron-nornlen.com) in funky old buildings down Thewet Soi 1 (B1) There’s no TV and no smoking but they welcome families, serve vegetarian breakfast and are in a great area for those who love wandering!
OTHER TOP PICKS ON THE MAP In the Sukhumvit area, there are so many new boutique hotels, it is overwhelming (just take one look at the Sukhumvit map)! For colonial ambience, we must mention the Eugenia (B 6,900+, www.theeugenia.com) on Sukh. Soi 31 (F1). www.theeugenia.com. In the Central Shopping Area, Siam@Siam Design (B 5,000+, www.siamatsiam.com) on Rama I (C2) is a fashion conscious option with our favourite artsy rooftop bar. Around the corner and closer to the shopping is the equally chic VIE Hotel Bangkok (B 3,000+, www.viehotelbangkok.com) on Phaya Thai (C1-2). If heading to Chinatown, try a night at the Shanghai Mansion (B 4,000+, www.shanghaimansion.com) on Yaowarat (B2, H3-4). Its rooms are 'Shanghai Tang' style with vibrant colors, unique furnishings and distinctive touches of luxury. Facilities include a small library stocked with old books and a new jazz bar, but no restaurants as the best food in this area is served on the streets.
NEW BOUTIQUE HOTELS IN OLD BANGKOK New in the historic Phraeng Phuthon (A2-B2) quarter is The Bhuthorn (B 3,500+, www.thebhuthorn.com) with 3 rooms fitted out in period furniture, recycled teak and old maps and prints. Tel: 02-622-2270. Older but deserving of special mention (and not just because we couldn’t fit it on the 25th edition map, although it is in the directory) is Baan Dinso (B 950+, www.baandinso.com) which has cozy-looking old style rooms in an teak house dating back to the 50s just off Dinso Rd near Democracy Monument (A2-B2). Also new, on a lane behind what was the Museum of Jade on Rajadamnoen Nok (B2) are the Siamese Views Lodge (B 1,400+, www.siameseviewslodge.com) and the Sourire @ Rattanakosin Island (B 1,500+, www.sourirebangkok.com).
NEW BOUTIQUE PROPERTIES IN SILOM / DOWNTOWN BANGKOK On the 25th edition map, but worthy of a special mention are two young properties: The retro Take a Nap (B 1,000+, www.takeanaphotel.com) - each room a different theme - on Rama IV just north of the Montien Hotel (C3). Tel: 02-637-0015. Business travellers may prefer the more chic style of GLOW Trinity Silom (B 2,000+, www.glowhotels.com) on Silom Soi 3 (C3) with all its modcoms. Tel: 02-231-5050. For a mix of business and the artsy, the hip new all-suite Tenface Hotel (B 3,700+, www.TenfaceBangkok.com) on Ruam Rudee Soi 2 (D3) has had younger business travellers raving about some of its special touches.
NEW BOUTIQUE HOTELS IN SUKHUMVIT The S31 (B 3,700+, www.s31hotel.com) atop Sukh. Soi 31 is now open. Tel: 02-260-1111.
NEW BOUTIQUE HOTELS IN THE CENTRAL SHOPPING AREA
OTHER NEW HOTELS IN THE SUKHUMVIT AREA
OTHER NEW HOTELS IN CENTRAL BANGKOK
OTHER NEW HOTELS IN GREATER BANGKOK
NEW GUESTHOUSES IN THE KHAO SAN AREA We've released a detailed map of this area including hotels, guesthouses and flophouses down every back lane, listed with room rates. Click on the link in the menu bar under Maps for details. Newer hotels in this area are listed on the Khao San & Old Bangkok Map’s Updates page. Among special mentions: The Lamphu House (B 390-950+, www.lamphuhouse.com) (A4) off west Rambuttri has rooms of many standards, including nice ones with balconies. Tel: 02-629-5861-2.
NEW GUESTHOUSES IN THE SILOM AREA On the 25th edition, but deserving of special mention is the hip Lub D hostel (www.LubD.com) on Decho Rd (C3) with dorms from B 550+/bed and private rooms from B 1,800+. Tel: 02-634-7999. The artsy Take a Nap (www.takeanaphotel.com) on Rama IV just north of the Montien Hotel (C3) ) also has dorms from B 350+/bed and private rooms from B 1,000+. Tel: 02-637-0015.
NEW GUESTHOUSES IN THE SUKHUMVIT AREA
OTHER NEW GUESTHOUSES
NAME CHANGES For those who cannot find their hotel on any current listings, several have changed name and/or management. Most recent name changes included the below: Reflections Rooms (I2) --> Mystic Place Unico Leela, Sukh. 3 (F1) --> Unico Express
CORRECTIONS
SIGHTSEEING
OUR TOP SPECIAL SIGHTS On the 25th edition map but worthy of special mention are two sights rarely mentioned in guidebooks yet: The Museum of Siam (www.ndmi.or.th) on Sanam Chai Road (A2) is innovative, entertaining, and thought provoking. Take the kids, take a camera, play with the interactive exhibits, and visit the unique Muse gift shop too. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. Closer to downtown Bangkok, the Bangkokian Museum on Charoen Krung Soi 43 (B3-C3) is in an old home, displaying the artifacts of daily life in the past. Go at the right time and the owner will give you a personal tour. We found her delightful, sharing personal anecdotes about her childhood and the finds she made when her family moved out, including some items it has taken her years to identify. Upstairs, visitors can learn more about this part of town, home to the first western residents of Bangkok. Open Wed-Sun 10am-4pm.
MUSEUM UPDATES
CHILDREN’S DISCOVERY MUSEUM TEMPORARILY CLOSED The highly regarded Children’s Discovery Museum in Queen Sirikit Park (G3, I2) near Chatuchak Weekend Market has been closed for renovations. We believe it will not reopen until mid-2011, but we’re checking with those in charge to be sure.
FOR THE CHILDREN For those with teens, drop by the area in front of Siam Square’s Hard Rock (E) betw. 10am and 9pm on a Sat or Sun to join in a host of fun activities, including dance contests, sports, graffiti painting and more.
EXPLORING OLD BANGKOK OR KHAO SAN? Follow the link above in our menu bar for details about our new highly detailed map of Khao San and Old Bangkok. Included are many small sights, shops, restaurants and more that we just couldn't squeeze onto the Bangkok map!! For getting around Old Bangkok (A2), keep an eye out for the city’s free bike rental program for tourists, recently relaunched, with bicycles reportedly available Mon-Fri 10am-6pm and Sat-Sun 10am-8pm at Wat Phra Kaew, City Hall, Santichaiprakarn Park and Saranrom Park. ID may be required. Also, please don’t rent one without a helmet though!
GOING TO CHINATOWN? Good news: A red tram service now offers free rides from the top of the road to Wat Traimit (H3), a short stroll from the Hualampong subway station. In other news: The Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Museum has reopened at Wat Traimit (H3-4). Check back here for more details shortly. Elsewhere in Chinatown, the 100 year old gold shop at the corner of Sampeng Lane and Soi Mangkon (H4), officially Tang Toh Kang, has opened a small Gold Museum. It’s dusty and a four floor climb up, packed with old equipment, only for the especially interested. For a private viewing, call 02-224-2422. Note: You may need an interpreter.
OUT OF TOWN SIGHTS If you have a car and driver and are looking for something different to do, allow us to recommend the Talaat Nam Wat Baan Nam Peung floating market in Bang Krachao (the green lung of Bangkok) (J3). Well-organized and relatively clean, it made for a good half day’s adventure. If visiting with children, head left at the first side lane to find the children’s activity area. Note: You do want to take a car there and have it wait for you! Directions: Take the Rama IX bridge to Suksawat Rd (I3) and on to Phra Padaeng town, then have your driver watch for Thai signs to the market which is northeast of the Industrial Ring Road.
NEW RIVER CRUISE OPTIONS For private cruises for 10-40 persons, SabaiCruise (www.sabaicruise.com) offers all sorts of special arrangements for different theme events. www.sabaicruise.com. The Banyan Tree’s Apsara dinner cruises are back on, offering gourmet Royal Thai dinners on the river on Fridays and Saturdays for B 2,200++, departures at 7.45pm from River City (B3). Book at 02-679-1200. The Prem Center Magic Eyes Barge Program office has moved to the Bangkok River Marina on Charan Sanitwong Soi 70 (I2). New tel: 02-879-1032.
FOR MEDITATION We recently visited the Sathira Dhammasathan meditation gardens in the Ram Intra area (J1) and wish to clarify directions for those driving out to it from the city: From the Ram Intra-At Narong Expressway take the first exit after Ram Intra, labeled Vacharaphol Road, which is in fact Ram Intra Soi 55 as noted on the 25th ed. map, although not marked as such on the roads. See www.sdsweb.org/en/. Note: The nearby Peuan Deratchan organic restaurant with mini zoon on Ram Intra Soi 5 (J1) has closed.
WINERY TOUR NOW ON OFFER Siam Winery is now offering tours of its Samut Sakorn Winery, approx. an hour from Bangkok. Tel: 02-996-6083 or see www.siamwinery.com.
SPA UPDATES The Wat Po Thai Traditional Massage School, off Maharat inbetw. the Aurum and Arun hotels (A2) has changed its telephone number to 02-622-3550.
LOOKING FOR SOMETHING DIFFERENT TO DO? Consider volunteering while in Thailand. See www.starfishventures.co.uk for everything from English teaching to turtle conservation and dog rescue programs from two week packages to longer term placements. Also see www.thaivolunteer.org which trains Thai NGO workers, but also offers Village Stay and Study Trips for visitors to Thailand.
CHANGES AND CORRECTIONS
CLOSED
SHOPPING
THE SUAN LUM NIGHT BAZAAR IS CLOSING Updated June 2010: The demolition teams are moving in on the Suan Lum Night Bazaar. As of late May 2010, much of the back buildings and Section E were being torn down. Vendors in the remaining sections in the center of the market have since told us they are making exit plans. In other words, visit while you can if only for a few beers in the beer garden during World Cup season.
FOR ASIAN DECOR For real antique furniture, visit Thong-Ek's unrestored teak furniture and decor outlet at 1339 Sukhumvit east of Wat That Thong (F2) near Ekkamai BTS Station, open Mon-Sat, noon to 7pm. The frontage of the shop is small and easy to miss but we hear there are real treasures out back. Also new is Willmotts in the Grand Langsuan Bldg on Lang Suan (D2), which now carries a range of furniture and home decor from Chiang Mai veteran design decor shop Gong Dee Gallery.
NEW ART GALLERIES See www.bangkokartmap.com for all galleries in town. Among new ones: Charlie Gallery (charliegallery.blogspot.com) is on 4F above where Ver Gallery is marked in the Klong San Market Plaza (B3). Tel: 02-861-1727. NoSpace (www.nospacebkk.com) is in the RCA area (J2-3).
ART GALLERY MOVES AND CHANGES The Bangkok Art Auction (www.bangkokartauction.com) has moved to Lard Prao (J2). Carpediem (www.carpediemgallery.com) has moved from Times Square, Sukhumvit (F1) to Sukhumvit Soi 36 (F2) where it has space in the Baan Sukhumvit condo on subsoi 5. New tel: 081-618-2890.
ART GALLERY CLOSURES Closed: Conference of Birds on Pan Road (C3), 084-928-1152. Gallery Soulflower, Silom Galleria (C3).
FOR CRAFTS The highly respected and recommended ThaiCraft now holds its sales in the Jasmine City tower atop Sukh. Soi 23 (F1) - see Events in the menu bar at left for upcoming dates.
FOR TEXTILE LOVERS Chiang Mai’s highly respected Studio Naenna textiles are now available at the Sop Moei Arts outlet off Sukhumvit Soi 49 (F1-2). If heading that way, do visit the new home of long standing, well respected, unique handspun silk outlet Lea Silk (www.lea-silk.com) which is on the map at 28 Sukhumvit Soi 22 (F2). Supporting the Ban Reng Khai Foundation of village weavers, it is in an old wooden Thai house with a beautiful garden and small cafe. Tel: 02-259-2995.
FOR GEMS AND JEWELRY Astral Gemstone Talismans Siam Society branch (F1) has closed due to fire. Xistnz, Chatuchak Sec. 3 (G1) has also closed.
FOR OTHER DECOR Interested in eco-friendly designer decor? Visit the young Eco Shop, GF, Digital Gateway, Siam Square (E) featuring functional and green product designs, imported and local. Closed: Hemisphere, Convent (C3); S71 Furniture Loft, Sukh. 71 (J3).
FOR RETRO FURNISHINGS For those who's looking for Papaya's warehouse of retro (not on the map but a longtime big name in retro), it is now at 306/1 Lard Prao Soi 55/2, west of Pradit Manutham (J2). Open daily 10am-7pm. Tel: 02-933-0661.
FOR VINYL RECORD COLLECTORS & MUSIC LOVERS Jazzbah Records (not on the map) is now the area behind Ramkamhaeng Univ. See www.jazzbah.com for directions/info.
GOING TO CHATUCHAK?
NEW WHOLESALE CLOTHING MALL Bargain clothing hunters, take a deep breath. On the map but worthy of special mention is the Platinum Fashion Mall on Petchburi Road (E) which has four large floors packed with the latest fashions at wholesale prices, and jewelry and a huge food court on the fifth and sixth. And, more importantly, it's all airconditioned! Note: There are few dressing rooms and most clothes are Thai size but there are also several now selling larger sizes. Also, the mall closes around 6pm, so go during the day.
NEW SHOPPING MALLS Looking for Seri Center? Please note this mall on Srinakarin Road (J3) was renamed Paradise Park and taken upmarket in late 2009. Also, please note that The Portico on Lang Suan (D2) has yet to open.
BOOKSHOP UPDATES
FOR BARGAIN BOOKS It's on the map, but we have to give it a special plug: The Dasa Book Cafe (F2) (betw Sukh. Sois 26 and 28, now just a few doors closer to Soi 28) is well worth browsing, even just its website www.dasabookcafe.com. For those in the Eastern Suburbs, Angel Tomorrow which sells used books imported from the US for all ages is now off Soi Lasalle (J3), open weekends only. See www.AngelTomorrow.com for details.
FOR STATIONERY AND SUPPLIES Closed: 555 envelopes and cards, MBK (E).
FOR SPORTING GOODS
FOR THE CHILDREN If you have teens, try to drop by the Indy in Town teen market now in the 7th floor Centrepoint teen hangout in CentralWorld (E) on Friday nights. Unique handmade accessories and gifts, made by teens and young adults, are on sale often with concerts alongside.
BUY OR DONATE QUALITY USED GOODS FOR A GOOD CAUSE In the Nonthaburi area, White Elephant (Sat 9am-noon only) has opened in the Oasis Mall on Samakee (I1) with 100% of proceeds from the sale of donated furniture and other items going to charity.
CLOSED
DINING
FOR SOMETHING COMPLETELY DIFFERENT For a uniquely modern Thai treat, try Studio 9 opposite Patravadi Theatre on the Thonburi side of the river (A2). Overlooking the river, it's one of the city's best secrets, with performance art staged every Friday and Saturday from 7.30pm. Rare cinematic art is also shown on Fridays. Tel: 02-866-2144. www.patravaditheatre.com. The same actors and artists behind Studio 9 are now performing Mon-Sat in an indoor dinner theatre program at Maya on the 3rd floor of the Millenium Hilton (B3). As with stage shows, guests are asked to book in advance and wait outside to be seated promptly at 7pm for the 2 1/2 hour show. Dinner is B 1,250 for an authentic Thai tapas dinner of 15 courses, each accompanied by different acts, some you’ll see coming, others a complete surprise! Tel: 02-442-2000.
UPDATES ON OUR FAVOURITE RESTAURANTS Salad and sandwich specialist Bread on Soi Ruam Rudee (D2) has been renamed Cafe Tartine, to better reflect its French cafe style menu.
OUR TOP PICKS FOR 2010 TO DATE Scold us. We don’t have a new Thai to recommend, but two Mexicans and one international. For great food, drinks and ambience, we love Los Cabos, a ‘California Mexican Grill’, on Sukh. Soi 14 (F1), in a big old Thai house. We recommend the 2nd floor terrace, but there is a retro-style area inside for those who want aircon, and a friendly bar and courtyard. Tel: 02-653-3900. www.loscabosbangkok.com. Also drawing us back is the petite La Monita Taqueria in Mahatun Plaza near the Ploenchit BTS (D2). Warning: Its 5 tables fill up quickly for lunch and dinner. Tel: 02-650-9581. www.lamonita.com. Finally, due a special plug as well is the new Lake House Wine Garden, at 18 Soi Prommitr betw. Sukh. Sois 39 & 49 (F2), with seating under the trees by its pond and, inside a house once home to some of Bangkok’s leading literatti, weekly free wine tastings (currently on Fridays). Eve. only. 02-662-6349. www.lakehousebkk.com.
FOR THE TRENDY DINER
AD MAKERS, REOPENED! This once very popular Thai restaurant and pub which had to close its original Lang Suan outlet has reopened as a bar and restaurant next to what was Bread (now Cafe Tartine), atop Soi Ruam Rudee (D2), offering its distinctive brand of live music (the kind that gets people up and dancing in the aisles) as well as its ever popular menu of Thai food. Tel: 02-168-5158.
NEW THAI RESTAURANTS The historic Chakrabongse Villas on Maharat (A2) now offers non-guests the opportunity to dine within the former palace grounds along the river. Traditional Thai set lunch and dinners are B 2,000. Reservations required. 02-622-1900. Closed: Peuan Deratchan, Ram Intra Soi 5 (J1).
NEW INTERNATIONAL DINING On the map but worthy of special mention here is Mister Pas on Phra Athit (A4) opposite Phra Sumen fort. It’s fab food with five-star presentation but not a hint of pretention. We went for dinner and we’re back the next day for a delicious brunch! New for 2010 and packing in the crowds, especially for free wine tastings currently every Friday night, is the new Lake House Wine Garden and Tapas restaurant. See OUR TOP PICKS FOR 2010 above.
NEW FUSION
NEW CHINESE RESTAURANTS
NEW ENGLISH, AUSTRALIAN & IRISH PUBS
NEW FRENCH RESTAURANTS
NEW GREEK RESTAURANTS
NEW INDIAN RESTAURANTS
NEW ISAAN RESTAURANTS
NEW ITALIAN RESTAURANTS IN THE SUKHUMVIT AREA (F1-2) 6th Fratello, Soi 63/12. 02-391-9946.
OTHER NEW ITALIAN RESTAURANTS
NEW PIZZA JOINTS
NEW JAPANESE RESTAURANTS Among outlets not on the map: Sanuki Udon specializes in udon noodles at 44/14 Sukh. Soi 21 (F1). 02-664-2949.
NEW MEXICAN VENUES New on Sukh. 14 (F1) is Los Cabos, highly recommended for its great food and ambience! Also new and delicious: La Monita in Mahatun Plaza near the Ploenchit BTS station (D2). See OUR TOP PICKS FOR 2010 TO DATE above for details.
NEW MIDDLE EASTERN DINING
NEW RIVERSIDE DINING
NEW SEAFOOD RESTAURANTS Enjoy The Oyster Bar’s menu at its second location, named The Seafood Bar, now open on Sukh. Soi 16 near Cool Chilli (F1). Tel: 02-663-8863. Tue-Fri eve. only, Sat-Sun noon-3pm and 6-10pm.
NEW SKYHIGH DINING
NEW STEAKHOUSES Closed: Great American Rib’s branch on Ramintra Soi 57 (J1); Hog’s Breath Cafe, Eight Thonglor, Sukhumvit Soi 55/8.
NEW SPANISH / SOUTH AMERICAN RESTAURANTS
NEW VIETNAMESE RESTAURANTS
FOR HEALTH FOOD FANS The young Bon Appeti Low Fat Cafe & Bakery on the GF of Ploenchit Center offers low calorie sweets & snacks using low fat milk and egg whites.
FOR VEGETARIANS
FOR THE SWEET TOOTH
FOR SANDWICH LOVERS On Asoke / Sukhumvit Soi 21 (F1) the Grand Millennium hotel's Fourworx also offers a fine deli with sandwiches made to order. For a French cafe’s stylish sandwiches and salads, try Cafe Tartine (on the map by its former name ofBread) on Ruam Rudi, north of Ruam Rudi Village (D2). 02-168-5464-5.
FOR WINE LOVERS See OUR TOP PICKS FOR 2010 above for details of the free wine tastings at the new Lake House Wine Garden and Tapas restaurant on Soi Prommitr!
DINNER CRUISES AND SHOWS The Mandarin Oriental’s Maeyanang only offers dinner cruises on a charter basis now for exclusive groups. The Banyan Tree’s Apsara dinner cruises are back on, offering gourmet Royal Thai dinners on the river on Fridays and Saturdays for B 2,200++, departures at 7.45pm from River City (B3). Book at 02-679-1200.
COOKING CLASSES
NEW OFF KHAO SAN
FOR THOSE IN NONTHABURI If in northern Bangkok, we recommend exploring the many fine restaurants in Bon Marche on Prachaniwet 1 (J2) off Prachacheun Rd. Worth going on Saturday to enjoy the market's jazz 4-6pm.
CHANGES
CLOSED
ENTERTAINMENT
NIGHTLIFE RESTRICTIONS Most bars and restaurants in Thailand are officially supposed to close at 1am, with some in the Patpong, Ratchadapisek and RCA areas allowed to stay open to 2am. A few after hours club come and go each year, all unofficial of course and subject to random closures. The drinking age is now 20 and many clubs and bars do check for identification (we recommend you carry a copy of your passport, not the real thing). Also, as of Feb 2008, all air-conditioned restaurants and bars were supposed to go smoke-free, as well as hotel lobbies and all public areas. This law has yet to be strictly enforced however, but be forewarned, the fine for lighting up in restricted areas is a hefty B 2000.
CLUBBING SCENE UPDATE Hyde & Seek, next to what was Bread (D2), is a new chic cocktail lounge bar on Ruam Rudee. Lo-Shu, Sukh. 23-31 (F1), now hosts popular DJ dance nights every Friday. Koi’s FTV Lounge, Sukh. Soi 20 (F1), is now the F Lounge, with the FTV Studio Bar having opened in the InterContinental (E). Those looking for what was years ago Narcissus on Sukhuvmit Soi 23 (F1), please note it is now known as the Narz Club. Closed: Gazebo, Sukh. 1 (F1).
FOR THE SOCIETY SET
PARTY FOR CHARITY Pop by the Glaz Bar at the Plaza Athenee (D2) on Witthayu the last Wed ea. month for Cocktails and Cones, a networking party raising money for Operation Smile. Entry is B 500 and includes free cocktails and tapas.
NEW PUBS
FOR CLASSICAL MUSIC Opera, symphonies, chamber music and other special classical performances are now listed online at www.bangkokconcerts.org. Meanwhile, Bangkok Opera’s ShOpera showroom is now on the 4th floor (no longer the GF) of the Bangkok Art & Culture Center (E), selling all sorts of opera DVDs, CDs and memorabilia as well as performance tickets.
FOR COMEDY
FOR QUIZ NIGHTS
FOR BEER LOVERS For those willing to venture into the suburbs, Singha Beer has opened the industrial-chic microbrewery Est. 33 (Established 1933) in the new Crystal Design Center (J2) on Pradit Manutham, with an international menu by Minibar Royale, three of its microbrew draught beers, and a range of beer cocktails and mocktails. See www.Est-33.com.
FOR LIVE MUSIC
NEW JAZZ CLUBS Just opened in Chinatown’s 30s style boutique hotel, the Shanghai Mansion (B2, H3-4), is the Cotton Jazz Bar, open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight with live jazz 8-10pm and a Thai and western menu. 02-221-2121. Changes: The Jazz Gallery bar on Chakkrabong (B4) is now the AB Bar with live jazz on Tuesday nights only.
FOR LIVE MUSIC IN THE KHAO SAN AREA If heading up Samsen (A1), there are a number of new small live music venues there worth checking out as well, including Common Ground which reportedly hosts Reggae Night on Thursdays from 9.30pm on.
OTHER KHAO SAN NIGHTLIFE UPDATES The Diamond Hotel on Samsen (A4-B4) no longer has a rooftop bar, but the staff seems happy to sell drinks on the Ground Floor and allow non-guests access to the area where several lounge chairs are laid out under the stars.
FOR SPORTS
LATIN DANCE NIGHTS See www.salsabangkok.com and http://tangobangkok.com for the latest listings - we can’t keep up with what’s open or closed these days!
LADIES NIGHTS ROUND UP Coyote on Convent Road (C3) hosts Ladies Nights on Wednesdays from 6-8pm and Saturdays 10-12pm, during which female patrons get free margaritas. The same goes on Thursday nights 6-8pm at its Coyote Sukhumvit branch atop Sukhumvit Soi 33 (F1). The Bull’s Head on Sukhumvit Soi 33/1 Ladies Night is on Thursdays from 7-11pm with wine for the price of water and bingo prizes. Tenderloins on Sukhumvit Soi 33 now offers ladies free drinks Tuesdays 7-9pm and the Dubliner on Sukhumvit opposite Soi 33 (F1) offers women 50% off on Wednesdays from 7pm on too. Q Bar on Sukhumvit Soi 11 (F1) has also introduced entry free nights for women on Wednesdays.
FOR MAJOR EVENTS Visit www.thaiticketmajor.com (formerly www.thaiticketmaster.com) for listings and bookings of concerts, sporting events, movies and more.
CHANGES & CLOSURES In addition to the closures mentioned above by category, the following are closed: Other Characterful Bars / Rain Dogs, off Rama IV (D3). LIVING
NEW HOURS FOR ALCOHOL/TOBACCO SALES In an imaginative 'social order' move, general stores are officially banned from selling alcohol outside the hours of 11am-2pm and 5-10pm, unless they are located near schools or temples, in which case there is supposed to be a total ban on alcohol and tobacco. The stated purpose of this new policy is to protect minors from indulging. Enforcement varies, but it is worth noting that hypermarkets and other wholesalers may sell alcohol outside the permitted hours as long as customers are buying in bulk (officially, in 'wholesale quantities'). On the other hand, select Thai restaurants seem to be applying the letter of the law, not allowing diners to order alcohol outside official hours. Hotels are also reportedly fighting a battle to retain their right to sell to visitors at any hour of the day.
LOOKING FOR GOOD WINE? Oops. Overlooked when updating this section of the map’s directory was La Bottega Di Luca Wine Shop in 49 Terrace on Sukhumvit Soi 49 (F1-2) and the Wine Loft’s Wine Academy on Sukh. Soi 31 (www.wineloft.com). Also, Wine Loft’s branch in The Portico on Lang Suan (D2) has yet to open.
AA HOTLINE LAUNCHED Call Alcoholics Anonymous' 24 hour hotline at 02-231-8300 if you need support or advice anytime, day or night. Also new http://www.aathailand.org for more information. Please note that other support groups are listed on page 69 of the 25th edition map’s directory.
NEW CRISIS INTERVENTION HOTLINE The Samaritans of Bangkok have launched an English language crisis intervention help line, specifically aimed at suicide prevention, available on Thursdays from 8am to noon, all calls anonymous and free of charge. You may have to leave your number so they can call back after locating an English volunteer however. Tel: 02-713-6791.
NEW MEDICAL CLINICS
FOR OTHER HOBBIES
CLASSES FOR THE KIDS The Soi Cat and Dog rescue group on Sukhumvit Soi 71 (J3) now offers Stray Tails Educational Programs for students of 8-18 years. Included are courses on animal welfare, responsible pet ownership and volunteering jobs with the group. For more information, email straytails@yahoo.com.
NEW CINEMAS For those into old movies, the Saladaeng Cafe by Jim Thompson on Saladaeng Soi 1 (C3) screens old Thai and English black and white movies nightly at 6-10pm in its outdoor Sala Casa...
THAI LANGUAGE SCHOOLS & THAI TRANSLATIONS UPDATE Jentana & Associates has reopened, now offering its unique Thai language and cultural courses on the 32nd floor of Interchange Tower, which is on the northeastern corner of Sukhumvit Soi 21 (Asoke) and Sukhumvit Road. Tel: 02-260-6138. A branch has since opened in the Nichada Thani area at 33/14 Samakee (I1). 02-582-1192-3. www.thai-lessons.com. For those looking for an easier way to get translations done, note that the translation services formerly at the corner of Ploenchit and Witthayu Roads (D2) have moved around the corner into the Mahatun Plaza (D2).
IMMIGRATION OFFICE MOVES As noted on the 25th edition map, the Immigration Bureau on Suan Plu (D3) now only handles Cambodian, Burmese and Lao alien workers. All other visitors seeking visa extensions or re-entry permits now need to visit the new Immigration Bureau office at the new Government Center in Chaeng Wattana (I1-J1). Allow time to find the office, which is located on the second floor of Building B of this immense complex. Note: We have been told there are taxi queues and a relatively good food court out there too.
NEW SUPERMARKETS Note: Lemon Farm’s branch in The Portico on Lang Suan (D2) has yet to open.
FOR THOSE WITH PETS
LOOKING FOR WIRELESS INTERNET SERVICES? For wi fi hotspots, see www.bkkok.com, www.jiwire.com (see Krung Thep), or www.stickmanbangkok.com. Too many cafes and bars now offer free access to customers for us to list them all!
CHANGES & CORRECTIONS
TRANSPORTATION
ABOUT SUVARNABHUMI AIRPORT Suvarnabhumi International Airport (pronounced Sue Wanna Poom) is now handling all international and most domestic flights (not to be confused with the old international Don Muang airport which handles only domestic flights - see below). The 4th floor serves both domestic and international departures, with the 3rd floor home to airline lounges and more shops. There is a 6th floor restaurant and 7th floor observation area. Arrivals exit on the 2nd floor. Wifi is now available within the departure gates, but passengers must visit an information booth for an access password and time is currently limited to 15 minutes. For more time, visit a King Power shop for one hour access cards at B 250 each.
Airport Transportation Options Meter taxi services into the city are back on the 1st floor, B 50 surcharge in effect. You can also pick up taxis outside Gate 10 on the 4th floor. Meter taxi drop offs meanwhile are restricted to Gates 1 and 8 (meaning a long walk for some, but don't worry, there are plenty of trolleys available). Airport Bus services into the Banglampoo, Silom, Wireless, and Hualampong areas are available on the 2nd floor, at B 150 per person, but may move to the Ground Floor. For public buses, board the Airport Shuttle Bus to the Public Transport Center 3km away where they run from 5am to 9pm, serving Minburi-Bangkapi, Victory Monument, Onnut BTS Station, and Rangsit, among other destinations. Tentative launch date for the Airport Rail Link is July 2010 (fingers crossed).
DON MUANG AIRPORT NOW HANDLING SOME DOMESTIC FLIGHTS TOO! Double check your domestic flights. Don Muang, now renamed Don Meuang to more accurately reflect the pronunciation of the airport's name, is handling all domestic flights by Nok Air and One-Two-Go. Thai Airways International flights have all moved back to Suvarnabhumi as of March 29, 2009. If unsure which airport you are supposed to go to, check the airport code which is DMK for Don Meuang and BKK for Suvarnabhumi Airport. For those who have to transfer between airports, please allow at least 4 hours connection time between flights.
AIRPORT DEPARTURE TAX RAISED Airport departure tax has increased to B 700 for international flights and B 100 for domestic flights. Most airlines have started to include tax at the time of ticket purchase however.
GOING TO THE THAILAND CULTURAL CENTRE? For those who realized the nearest subway station, unfortunately named the Thailand Cultural Centre (J2), is actually quite a ways from the centre, there are now free shuttle bus services from the subway to the cultural centre on performance days. Simply use Exit 1 to catch the bus.
PETROL STATIONS HOURS LIMITED Petrol stations are open only from 5am to 10.30pm, so plan ahead if you are renting a car or planning other car travel! If you run out, park and cab it home as the government is not allowing any flexibility in its new austerity drive.
BUS AND RIVER TAXI FARES GOING UP AND DOWN Bus and river taxi fares fluctuate depending on fuel costs so please excuse us if they’ve gone up (or down) since we published the current map! SPORTS
NEW GYMS California Wow and Planet Yoga have opened in Major Cineplex Ekkamai atop Sukhumvit Soi 61 (F2). Among other new gyms is GetFit Asia (www.getfitasia.com) with a studio on Sukh. 49 opp. Samitivej Hospital (F2) offering dance, yoga and women’s self defense classes.
NEW THAILAND ALL-SPORTS WEBSITE Finally! After the demise of Thailand’s only comprehensive sports website some years ago, we’ve been waiting for someone to fill the void. See www.sportsthailand.net for details on a wide range of sporting events, groups, and forums. Included for example are Aussie rules football, belly dancing, running, sailing, women’s kickboxing, netball, even a weight loss club. May you find what you’re looking for and/or discover something new and inspirational!
FOR BOXING CLASSES
FOR CYCLISTS Recommended SpiceRoad’s Weekend Escapes from Bangkok, two day getaways including cycling, sights, food and a bit of R&R in unique hotels. Also relatively new is its one day only Bangkok of Old tours. See www.spiceroads.com for details.
NEW DANCE STUDIOS
FOR GOLF
FOR TENNIS Le Smash Club & Tennis Academy has opened on Rama III Soi 64 (in the I3 area), offering all kinds of training, including mini tennis for kids and cardio tennis for adults, and tournaments. See www.lesmashclub.com for directions and more info.
FOR YOGA & PILATES ENTHUSIASTS
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Share Your Best Finds!
| Keeping our maps up-to-date is not easy. As places
come and go, and new services are introduced without
publicity, we do our best! We couldn't do as well as
we do without reader contributions, however. To let
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If it is something we haven't heard before, we'll be
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Nima and Nancy Chandler
Photo by Siri Chandler
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SEASONAL SPECIALS
PROTEST UPDATE Updated July 12, 2010 Bangkok is peaceful again. Scars of the three month red shirt protests are still visible in the Central Shopping Area where Zen Department Store, CentralWorld and the Siam cinema were burned down, but shoppers and diners to adjacent malls, hotels and markets have returned in force. All sightseeing venues are operating as usual, along with pretty much everything else. For those interested in what happened here in April and May, we encourage you to visit the Foreign Correspondents Club of Thailand in the Maneeya Building (E) where a photographic exhibit entitled Through The Lens: Bangkok’s Political Unrest is on display until August 31.
DENGUE FEVER ADVICE Thailand has experienced a surge in dengue fever infections in the past few years. A few tips for travellers: Always put on mosquito repellent even during the day (dengue carrying mosquitos feed from dawn to late morning and early afternoon to dusk; malaria carrying mosquitos at night as we understand it). Make sure any jars of water (common in Thai bathrooms) are filled to the brim and/or sealed shut. Avoid stagnant pools of water. Ask for a mosquito net if you find mosquitos in your room. And go to the doctor if you develop a major headache.
FOR SHOPPING EVENTS Please visit our Events page by clicking on Events in the navigation menu bar at the left hand of your screen. The calendar always gets busy from October on, but do check newspapers for other events - many don’t get announced until right beforehand!
SMOKE FREE UPDATE On February 17, 2008, all air-conditioned clubs, restaurants and the outdoor Chatuchak weekend market went smoke free. Smokers should keep an eye out for smoking zones in the far corners of the market and other areas or risk being fined B 2,000!
JAYWALKERS, BE MINDFUL! Bangkok’s police are reportedly now authorized to fine jaywalkers B 200 if there is a pedestrian flyover walkway or a zebra crossing within 100 yards. Areas targetted: Silom Road (C3), the Central Shopping Area (E, D2) and the Victory Monument area (C1-D1).
IN CASE OF EMERGENCY If traveling with a mobile or cell phone, enter your emergency contacts using the numbers 01, 02, 03, etc. followed by next-of-kin contact information, such as 01father, 02wife, 03son. Under July 2008 International Telecommunications Union policy, this is to become the global standard for helping emergency workers and police identify contacts in order of priority, replacing the ICE prefix formerly promoted in many English speaking countries. The new system is believed to be more readily understood internationally, especially in non-English speaking countries.
GRAND GLOBAL CARNIVAL June 18-August 26, 2010 All the fun of the fair has come to Ploenchit, with a carnival set up on the site in front of the British Embassy, a short walk from Ploenchit BTS station (D2). Expect a giant ferris wheel, rides and games of all kinds, and lots of food and drink. Entry is B 50 exclusive of rides (ladies get in free Thursdays 4-7pm), with ride-inclusive packages available at the door for B 300-800. Open daily from 4pm to 10pm.
WORLD CUP FOOTBALL June 11-July 11, 2010 Expect to see a lot of sleepwalkers on the job during this month. Thais are football fanatics and most will be staying up well into the night to catch the FIFA World Cup matches. Our advice is to join them. Note: Most Thai venues will have live broadcasts but these will probably be Thai language only (but a good way to learn some Thai). See your map directory for listings of all Sports Bars, many of which will have English language broadcasts. For late night matches, we believe the police have allowed most bars to stay open.
FCCT ASIAN FILM FESTIVAL Through July 2010 The Foreign Correspondents Club of Thailand in the Maneeya Building on Ploenchit (E) will be screening film festival quality Asian films this season, with buffets sponsored by the governments of sponsoring countries, including the following: Mr & Mrs Iyer (India) on July 22; Akasa Kusum (Sri Lanka) on July 29; Eliana Eliana (Indonesia) on August 5; and Nang Nak (Thailand) on August 26 with Monsoon Valley wines sponsored by Siam Winery. All screenings begin at 8pm. Cost for nonmembers is usually only B 150. To enjoy the dinner buffet for an extra B 100, please go a bit earlier. For more information and to confirm schedule if protests are ongoing, see www.fccthai.com.
DOWNTOWN THAI PUPPET THEATRE’S LAST SHOWS Through August 29, 2010 Support traditional Thai puppetry by visiting the Joe Louis Puppet Theatre in the Suan Lum Night Bazaar (D3) before it closes with the remainder of the market. Three different shows are now being staged, The Man Who Gave Life to the Puppets on Mon-Fri, The Myth of Rahu on Sat, and The Birth of Ganesha on Sun. See www.thaipuppet.com for more details. Tickets are B 900 each with shows nightly at 8pm.
PANTOMIME IN BANGKOK July 1-4, 2010 Mimes from around the world will converge on stage at the Muant Thai Life Insurance Auditorium which can be reached via Sutthisan MRT exit 3 (J2) this week for another entertaining performance. Tickets are B 800-1,000, available at www.ThaiTicketMajor.com, with shows at 7.30pm daily, and at 2pm on weekends.
SOI 11 PUB CRAWL July 2, 2010 Soi 11’s top clubs are teaming up to offer VIP entry and discounts to those that show up tonight with B 300 for a wristband. Included are free entry into The Nest, Q Bar and Bed. Meet at The Nest atop Le Fenix hotel (F1) at 9pm.
AMERICAN INDEPENDENCE DAY FAIR July 3, 2010 Join the American community in Bangkok at the KIS international school (J2) off Pracha Uthit for an afternoon of games, hot dogs, face painting, free health checks, live music, draught beer and more. Shuttle buses leave from the Huai Khwang MRT station Exit 1 (J2) every 5 minutes. Hours are 12.30 to 8pm. Entry B 300. See www.idaybkk.com for more details.
GUITAR CONCERT July 7, 2010 Guitar masters with Mahidol University perform classic international and Thai compositions this evening at the Siam Society on Sukhumvit Soi 21, also known as Asoke (F1). The recital begins at 7pm. Entry is free. Call 02-661-6470 for more details.
THAI ‘LA CAGE AUX FOLLES’ July 9-11, 2010 This local version of La Cage Auz Folles, entitled Kinnaree See Rung, stages encore performances at 7.30pm on July 9 and at 2pm and 7.30pm on July 10 and 11. At the Muang Thai Rachadalai Theatre in the Esplanade Ratchadapisek (I2-J2). Tickets are B 500-2,800, available at www.thaiticketmajor.com.
DUBOIS FAMILY CONCERT July 11, 2010 A mother, father and son - all talented pianists - will perform the works of Chopin this evening from 7pm on the grounds of the Goethe Institute off Sathorn Soi 1 (D3). Doors open at 6pm for refreshments. Tickets are only B 500, with proceeds supporting music education for young Thais. Call 089-039-6021 for bookings.
CLASSICAL PIANO CONCERT July 12, 2010 Belgian pianists perform a four-hands recital this evening from 8pm on the grounds of the Goethe Institute off Sathorn Soi 1 (D3). Tickets are B 500. Call 02-658-1080 for bookings.
CELLO RECITAL July 13, 2010 Bulgarian cellist Ljubo Oblikov accompanied by Mongolian pianist Tsengelmaa Lkhagvasuren preforma varide classical works from 8pm on the grounds of the Goethe Institute off Sathorn Soi 1 (D3). Tickets are B 500. Call 02-658-1080 for bookings.
PIANO SEVEN July 15, 2010 Seven pianists take to the stage at the M Theatre on Phetburi (J2-3) from 7.30pm to perform a range of different pieces. Tickets are B 1,000-2,000, available at www.thaiticketmajor.com.
MAHLER’S THIRD SYMPHONY July 21, 2010 The Siam Philharmonic brings together orchestras and choirs from Thailand, Hong Kong and the Czech Republic to perform this selection at Mahisorn Hall in SCB Park Plaza (I2-J2), on Ratchadapisek at Paholyothin. Tickets are B 800-1,500 available at www.thaiticketmajor.com, with curtains to go up at 7.30pm.
PARADE OF CHOIRS July 22, 2010 Asian and European choirs perform this evening from 7pm at Mahisorn Hall in SCB Park Plaza (I2-J2), on Ratchadapisek at Paholyothin. Entry is free. See www.festamusicale.com for more details.
ITALIAN FILM FESTIVAL July 22-28, 2010 Pop over to the Emporium (F2) atop Sukhumvit Soi 24 this week to catch this event sponsored by SF Cinema City and the Itlaian Embassy in Thailand.
THAI KHON DRAMA July 23-25, 2010 HM The Queen’s Support Foundation will stage five performances of the ‘Ramakian: Nong Loi’ story at the Thailand Cultural Centre (J2), starting at 7.30pm daily with special matinees at 2pm on Saturday and Sunday. Tickets are B 400-1,000, available at www.thaiticketmajor.com. (Note: Special shows for students only will be held on Monday, July 26 at 10am and 3pm, entry only B 100.) See www.khonperformance.com for more details.
FOLK SONG CONCERT July 28, 2010 The Mahidol University Chamber Choir performs 16 songs from 16 countries this evening at the Siam Society on Sukhumvit Soi 21, also known as Asoke (F1). The recital begins at 7pm. Entry is free, although donations are requested. Wine and snacks will be available for sale. See www.siam-society.org for more details.
BANGKOK CHEF CHARITY July 29, 2010 This annual fundraiser for underprivileged children starts with welcome champagne cocktails at 6pm, followed by a gala 9 course dinner created by 19 of Thailand’s top chefs and an auction at the Mandarin Oriental hotel (B3), presided over by HRH Princess Maha Chakri Sirindhorn. Tickets are B 7,900 per seat. To book, contact Rachanee at 02-659-9000 x 7302.
ROGERS & HAMMERSTEIN BROADWAY CONCERT July 31, 2010 The Bangkok Symphony Orchestra does Broadway with visiting vocalists from London at the Thailand Culutural Center (J2) from 8pm on this evening. Tickets are B 400-2,000 available at www.thaiticketmajor.com.
BANGKOK POST MINI MARATHON 2010 August 1, 2010 If you can get up and over to CentralWorld by 6am this Sunday, join in this mini marathon open to one and all, young and old. Prizes will be awarded to leaders of the 5km walk-run and the 10km run. For more information, see www.JogAnd Joy.com. Entry is only B 200, with proceeds going to underprivileged children.
BANGKOK STAMP FAIR August 4-14, 2010 This event will take place at the QSNCC (J2-3). More details when we have them.
NIJINKSKY SIAM August 6-7, 14-15, 2010 Fans of performance art shouldn’t miss this rare show to be staged at the Patravadi Theatre (A2). It comes to Thailand after touring Europe and the US. Tickets are B 500-1,000 at www.totalreservation.com. See www.PatravadiTheatre.com for more details.
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